Painting

Ultramarines Infernus — scorched grimdark

Worn dark blue armour, aged gold and scorched weapon metal give the Infernus a campaign-hardened finish. Controlled damage and quiet cold rubble support the stronger warm accents rather than covering every plate with equal wear.

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Colours on the model

Letters identify paints. The same letter can appear in several places.

Ultramarines Infernus — scorched grimdark

Painting stages

All stages

Stage 1 of 6

Preparation

Where to paintWhole model

For this stage

Blackvallejo · 70.602

Detailed instructions · 1

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.
Remove mould lines and dust before painting. If the unpainted model is greasy, wash it gently with warm soapy water, rinse and let every recess dry completely. Vallejo Black Surface Primer 70.602 is bottled primer: apply a thin, even coat with a soft brush, drawing excess out of recesses. Let it dry before adding another thin coat only where needed. Let the primer cure according to its label before painting. If the model already has sound, even primer, clean off dust and skip re-priming.
Expected result
The primer is evenly matte, while the eye sockets, shield lines, muzzle holes and armour joints remain crisp.
Points to watch
Do not prime damp surfaces or let primer pool in lenses, vents or weapon holes. This bottle is not an aerosol can.

Read the complete guide · 6

1. Preparation

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.
Where to paint: Whole model
Blackvallejo · 70.602
Remove mould lines and dust before painting. If the unpainted model is greasy, wash it gently with warm soapy water, rinse and let every recess dry completely. Vallejo Black Surface Primer 70.602 is bottled primer: apply a thin, even coat with a soft brush, drawing excess out of recesses. Let it dry before adding another thin coat only where needed. Let the primer cure according to its label before painting. If the model already has sound, even primer, clean off dust and skip re-priming.
Expected result
The primer is evenly matte, while the eye sockets, shield lines, muzzle holes and armour joints remain crisp.
Points to watch
Do not prime damp surfaces or let primer pool in lenses, vents or weapon holes. This bottle is not an aerosol can.

2. Blue armour

Shape a weighty dark-blue suit around the raised leg and broad shoulders, leaving the red helmet as the command focal point.
Where to paint: Blue armour plates
Kantor Bluecitadel · 21-07
Altdorf Guard Bluecitadel · 22-15
Calgar Bluecitadel · 22-16
Fenrisian Greycitadel · 22-68
Lay down two thin coats of Kantor Blue, keeping the ribbed joints black. Feather Altdorf Guard Blue over the upper half of the backpack, shoulder domes, forearms, raised thigh and both kneecaps. Add Calgar Blue to the planes facing the upper-left light, then place restrained Fenrisian Grey accents on the near shoulder, the raised knee and the top edges of the planted boot.
Expected result
The armour reads as one dark suit, with the raised leg and near shoulder catching more light than the protected rear plates.
Points to watch
Do not outline every edge at the same brightness, and keep blue away from the helmet, gold trim, shield field and weapon.

3. Weapon, helmet and insignia

Define the lowered weapon as a heavy black mechanism without lifting it to the same value as the blue armour.
Where to paint: Black weapon casing, grips and rubber joints
Abaddon Blackcitadel · 21-25
Eshin Greycitadel · 22-51
Paint the weapon casing, grips (including the black cylinder beneath the raised fist), ribbed armour joints and flexible rubber hoses with a thin coat of Abaddon Black, correcting any stray blue or metallic paint. Leave metal hoses and fittings for the steel step. With Eshin Grey, add short fine highlights to the upper casing corners, rail teeth and raised rubber ribs. Keep undersides and recesses black; let each coat dry before the next.
Expected result
The receiver, guard and rail are readable as separate forms, but the weapon still appears black beside the blue gauntlet.
Points to watch
Do not trace every panel seam in grey or paint the heat shield, muzzle rings and metallic hoses black.
Make the red command helmet the clearest warm shape above the dark blue armour.
Where to paint: Red command helmet
Mephiston Redcitadel · 21-03
Nuln Oilcitadel · 24-14
Evil Sunz Scarletcitadel · 22-05
Wild Rider Redcitadel · 22-06
Cover the helmet with Mephiston Red, leaving the grille slots black. Guide a little Nuln Oil into the deepest joins and beneath the brow, then restore the broad red planes. Glaze Evil Sunz Scarlet across the forehead and front-left cheek, and finish with short Wild Rider Red lines on the crown ridge and the sharpest cheek corner; keep the little skull in its later bone colour.
Expected result
The helmet is distinctly red from arm's length, with a dark grille and a controlled highlight focused toward the face.
Points to watch
Do not fill the grille slots with red or extend the brightest line around the entire helmet like a uniform outline.
Give the Sergeant's ornament enough warmth and contrast to read as command gear without turning every fitting bright gold.
Where to paint: Gold aquila, shoulder rims and reliquary frame
Retributor Armourcitadel · 21-35
Reikland Fleshshadecitadel · 24-24
Liberator Goldcitadel · 22-71
Base the chest aquila, shoulder rims, hanging reliquary frame and gold skull below the raised fist with Retributor Armour. Set Reikland Fleshshade into the feather gaps, beneath the shoulder borders and around the reliquary frame, then restore the raised planes with Retributor Armour. Use Liberator Gold only on the upper feathers, the near shoulder rim and the top corners of the hanging frame so the ornament follows the same light as the armour.
Expected result
The aquila and command fittings remain warm and readable, with shadows between every feather and highlights confined to upper edges.
Points to watch
Do not paint the black collar, shield field or every small rivet gold, and do not flood the skull details with shade.
Keep the shield legible as a command badge while matching the chipped, campaign-worn finish of the surrounding armour.
Where to paint: Pale shield, shoulder markings and bone skulls
Kantor Bluecitadel · 21-07
Fenrisian Greycitadel · 22-68
Wraithbonecitadel · 21-53
Reikland Fleshshadecitadel · 24-24
Administratum Greycitadel · 22-50
Build opaque thin Wraithbone coats on the shield field and shoulder markings; let each coat dry and keep their outlines inside the sculpted borders. Shade lower areas very lightly with Administratum Grey; use a trace of diluted Fenrisian Grey only for cool shadows. Restore upper surfaces with Wraithbone, which is lighter than either grey. Paint the shield chevron and its dark emblem with Kantor Blue. Paint the small helmet skull and the skull inside the hanging reliquary Wraithbone, shade their recesses with a little Reikland Fleshshade, then restore forehead, cheekbones and teeth with Wraithbone. Keep the reliquary frame gold and the eye sockets dark. Add a few tiny chips only on exposed heraldry edges.
Expected result
The shield reads clearly from a normal viewing distance, its blue emblem is centred, and the wear follows exposed edges rather than random spots.
Points to watch
Do not cover the metal frame with white, enlarge the blue emblem into the border or scatter identical chips across every marking.

4. Eye lenses

Separate the lenses from the red helmet with a tiny controlled glow rather than a broad halo.
Where to paint: Eye lenses
Mephiston Redcitadel · 21-03
Evil Sunz Scarletcitadel · 22-05
Wraithbonecitadel · 21-53
Abaddon Blackcitadel · 21-25
Repaint the sockets with Abaddon Black if their edges have softened. Fill each lens with Mephiston Red, place Evil Sunz Scarlet along the inner lower half, and finish with a pinprick of Wraithbone at the opposite upper corner. Compare the two eyes after every mark so their width and direction stay matched.
Expected result
Both lenses stay inside their sockets and show the same narrow red-to-orange transition with matching light points.
Points to watch
Do not enlarge the white points until they cover the scarlet transition or spill colour onto the brow.

5. Steel, heat stain and wear

Show repeated firing across the twin muzzle and perforated shroud while keeping every opening dark and mechanically precise.
Where to paint: Heat shield, muzzle and exposed steel fittings
Kantor Bluecitadel · 21-07
Nuln Oilcitadel · 24-14
Reikland Fleshshadecitadel · 24-24
Liberator Goldcitadel · 22-71
Leadbelchercitadel · 21-28
Ironbreakercitadel · 22-59
Base the perforated shroud, muzzle collars, exposed mechanisms and metallic helmet hoses with Leadbelcher. Put Nuln Oil in the holes and joints; let it dry fully. Keep the helmet hoses and rear mechanisms steel. On the shroud only, apply very transparent Kantor Blue near the receiver, then overlap its edge with a thin Reikland Fleshshade glaze. Let every glaze dry before repeating; the silver must remain visible. Build a warmer brown-gold tint toward the muzzle with Reikland Fleshshade. Add tiny Ironbreaker edge highlights and a few Liberator Gold marks on the front lip. This palette gives a cool-to-warm heat stain, not literal glowing metal or an exact copper paint match.
Expected result
The steel remains reflective beneath a soft cool-to-warm stain; holes stay dark and open, and unheated fittings stay steel.
Points to watch
Do not paint hard colour bands, fill the perforations or carry the heat stain onto the matte-black receiver and grips.
Make the damage follow the Sergeant's forward motion and the heat of the lowered weapon instead of covering every plate evenly.
Where to paint: Armour chips and muzzle soot
Kantor Bluecitadel · 21-07
Abaddon Blackcitadel · 21-25
Eshin Greycitadel · 22-51
Leadbelchercitadel · 21-28
Use a torn piece of sponge to tap small Kantor Blue and Eshin Grey chips onto exposed corners, concentrating them on the raised leg and near shoulder. Add a Leadbelcher centre to only a few larger chips. Thin Abaddon Black into a translucent glaze and feather soot backward from the muzzle, then add a lighter dusting around the lowest boot edges that pass close to the burning rubble.
Expected result
Wear clusters on plausible contact edges, exposed metal appears only inside deeper chips, and the soot fades before obscuring the armour highlights.
Points to watch
Do not repeat the same chip pattern on every plate or turn the whole lower half of the miniature uniformly black.

6. Rubble base and fire

Frame the warm fire and worn blue armour with a quiet, cold urban base and a clean black rim.
Where to paint: Grey rubble, charred timber and black base rim
Abaddon Blackcitadel · 21-25
Administratum Greycitadel · 22-50
Eshin Greycitadel · 22-51
Dawnstonecitadel · 22-49
Before painting the flames, coat the rubble Eshin Grey and the timber Abaddon Black. Let both dry. Wipe almost all Dawnstone off a broad brush and lightly sweep the stone texture, protecting the finished boots and armour. Touch Administratum Grey to a few sharp front fragments. Keep the timber dark, with only a few Eshin Grey grain marks away from the fire. Paint the outside rim smooth Abaddon Black. Now move to the flame step; its warm reflection goes over this finished beam.
Expected result
The rubble and black rim are finished, the beam is dark and the sculpted flames are ready for their pale undercoat.
Points to watch
Do not brighten every grain equally, brush grey over the flames or leave dusty fingerprints on the black rim.
Paint a compact fire and a subtle reflection on the adjacent beam.
Where to paint: Flames on the broken beam
Mephiston Redcitadel · 21-03
Evil Sunz Scarletcitadel · 22-05
Wild Rider Redcitadel · 22-06
Wraithbonecitadel · 21-53
Finish the grey rubble and blackened beam in the preceding base step before painting the fire. Cover the sculpted flames with thin Wraithbone coats until opaque, letting each dry. Keep a visible pale area at every flame root. Glaze diluted Wild Rider Red over the middle and outer tongues; add Evil Sunz Scarlet farther out and Mephiston Red only near the tips. Work in dry layers: each darker area must be smaller and farther from the root. Restore tiny Wraithbone points in the hottest roots. These paints give cream-to-orange-red fire; a true yellow band would need an additional yellow paint. Add a faint thin Wild Rider Red reflection only on the beam immediately beside the flames. Keep it weaker than the fire itself; do not repaint the beam black afterwards.
Expected result
Each flame is darkest at its tip, hottest at its base, and the broken beam carries a restrained red reflection beside the fire.
Points to watch
Keep pale highlights at the roots, never the tips. Do not spread orange reflections across the entire base.

All paints and materials (19)

Blackvallejo · 70.602

Kantor Bluecitadel · 21-07

Altdorf Guard Bluecitadel · 22-15

Calgar Bluecitadel · 22-16

Fenrisian Greycitadel · 22-68

Mephiston Redcitadel · 21-03

Nuln Oilcitadel · 24-14

Evil Sunz Scarletcitadel · 22-05

Wild Rider Redcitadel · 22-06

Wraithbonecitadel · 21-53

Abaddon Blackcitadel · 21-25

Retributor Armourcitadel · 21-35

Reikland Fleshshadecitadel · 24-24

Liberator Goldcitadel · 22-71

Administratum Greycitadel · 22-50

Eshin Greycitadel · 22-51

Leadbelchercitadel · 21-28

Ironbreakercitadel · 22-59

Dawnstonecitadel · 22-49

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Ultramarines Infernus — scorched grimdark

◉BrushDojoOfficial guide

Colours on the model

Letters identify paints. The same letter can appear in several places.

Painting stages

All stages

Stage 1 of 6

Preparation

Where to paintWhole model

For this stage

Blackvallejo · 70.602

Detailed instructions · 1

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.
Remove mould lines and dust before painting. If the unpainted model is greasy, wash it gently with warm soapy water, rinse and let every recess dry completely. Vallejo Black Surface Primer 70.602 is bottled primer: apply a thin, even coat with a soft brush, drawing excess out of recesses. Let it dry before adding another thin coat only where needed. Let the primer cure according to its label before painting. If the model already has sound, even primer, clean off dust and skip re-priming.
Expected result
The primer is evenly matte, while the eye sockets, shield lines, muzzle holes and armour joints remain crisp.
Points to watch
Do not prime damp surfaces or let primer pool in lenses, vents or weapon holes. This bottle is not an aerosol can.

Ultramarines Infernus — scorched grimdark

Colours on the model

Painting stages

Preparation

For this stage

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.

Expected result

Points to watch

1. Preparation

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.

Expected result

Points to watch

2. Blue armour

Shape a weighty dark-blue suit around the raised leg and broad shoulders, leaving the red helmet as the command focal point.

Expected result

Points to watch

3. Weapon, helmet and insignia

Define the lowered weapon as a heavy black mechanism without lifting it to the same value as the blue armour.

Expected result

Points to watch

Make the red command helmet the clearest warm shape above the dark blue armour.

Expected result

Points to watch

Give the Sergeant's ornament enough warmth and contrast to read as command gear without turning every fitting bright gold.

Expected result

Points to watch

Keep the shield legible as a command badge while matching the chipped, campaign-worn finish of the surrounding armour.

Expected result

Points to watch

4. Eye lenses

Separate the lenses from the red helmet with a tiny controlled glow rather than a broad halo.

Expected result

Points to watch

5. Steel, heat stain and wear

Show repeated firing across the twin muzzle and perforated shroud while keeping every opening dark and mechanically precise.

Expected result

Points to watch

Make the damage follow the Sergeant's forward motion and the heat of the lowered weapon instead of covering every plate evenly.

Expected result

Points to watch

6. Rubble base and fire

Frame the warm fire and worn blue armour with a quiet, cold urban base and a clean black rim.

Expected result

Points to watch

Paint a compact fire and a subtle reflection on the adjacent beam.

Expected result

Points to watch

Comments …

Ultramarines Infernus — scorched grimdark

Colours on the model

Painting stages

Preparation

For this stage

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.

Expected result

Points to watch

1. Preparation

Prepare a clean black foundation without closing the shield engraving, helmet grille or weapon perforations.

Expected result

Points to watch

2. Blue armour

Shape a weighty dark-blue suit around the raised leg and broad shoulders, leaving the red helmet as the command focal point.

Expected result

Points to watch

3. Weapon, helmet and insignia

Define the lowered weapon as a heavy black mechanism without lifting it to the same value as the blue armour.

Expected result

Points to watch

Make the red command helmet the clearest warm shape above the dark blue armour.

Expected result

Points to watch

Give the Sergeant's ornament enough warmth and contrast to read as command gear without turning every fitting bright gold.

Expected result

Points to watch

Keep the shield legible as a command badge while matching the chipped, campaign-worn finish of the surrounding armour.

Expected result

Points to watch

4. Eye lenses

Separate the lenses from the red helmet with a tiny controlled glow rather than a broad halo.

Expected result